Nonyabong - a name that resonates with the rich aroma of Peranakan cuisine and the heart-warming tales of family lineage. For Jeffrey Chia “Uncle Jeff” as he is known to his guests, the man behind the culinary magic, "Nonyabong" is not just a name. It’s an identity, a connection to his roots. "Nonyabong is my mother's name, and she was 100% Peranakan," begins Uncle Jeff as he opens a window to his rich ancestry, "My father's side is also Peranakan. so, you can say, I'm 200% Peranakan," he says with a chuckle.

When we talk about culinary history, we reminisce about flavours, spices and old family recipes, handed down through generations. For Uncle Jeff, it’s not just about cooking, it’s a chronicle of time and an ode to his mother’s culinary heritage, brought to life through his private dining endeavour in Singapore, “Nonyabong”. Such is its allure that these dinners are often sold out 6-9 months ahead since its inception in 2017, and now this celebrated experience finds its way to Paris from 21st to 25th September hosted by The Hood Paris.

In partnership with Chope Chope (a year-long culinary event dedicated to elevating Asian culinary arts on a global scale created by The Hood Paris and Jeremy Nguee), Uncle Jeff aims to reshape the often simplified narrative and perception of Asian cuisine. It was back in 2017 when Uncle Jeff shared his dream of cooking abroad with the co-founders of The Hood, a dream nurtured over decades finds its rightful place among the city’s illustrious events.

“We are a traditional Peranakan home dining. What you will eat here, it feels like you are going to your grandmother’s place to have real Peranakan food, it’s like going home”, Uncle Jeff shares proudly.

In Uncle Jeff’s hands at his private dinners, the past merges with the present. Beyond his genetic claims, Uncle Jeff’s connection to the Peranakan heritage runs deeper, embedded in the pages of his mother’s recipe books painstakingly written meticulously entirely in English from 1940. “The recipe book contained nuances only someone deeply familiar with the taste and its context could fully understand, like 20 cents worth of fresh coconut.” These recipes required a delicate balance of respecting tradition while making them relevant to the present.

The Peranakan, also known as Straits born, are descendants of Chinese, Indian immigrants who came to the Malay Archipelago between the 15th to 17th century. Their origins are tied to the early days of Portuguese and Dutch settlers in Malacca, and the inter marriages between Goan Indians, Malay locals and Chinese immigrants. “The Peranakan culture in Singapore is derived mostly from Indonesia, we learned and then broke away, but the influence remains undeniable. The buah keluak, a nut indigenous to Indonesia, is a prime example. The Indonesians found a way to bury it for 30 days to neutralize its poison” shares Uncle Jeff with an evident hint of reverence for his Indonesian ancestors who braved such a dish

At the heart of Uncle Jeff’s culinary vision is authenticity "All the dishes you'll relish at Nonyabong n Singapore comes directly from my kitchen. We emphasise homemade authenticity. I don't believe in fusion. To me, fusion just leads to confusion," states Jeffrey, emphasising his commitment to the original Peranakan recipes.

While many chefs experiment and modify traditional dishes, Jeffrey's philosophy remains simple and true. Every dish he crafts, is authentically made in-house and true to his mother’s recipes.

The Kueh Pie tie, are hand-made little cups filled with stewed shredded turnips, reminiscent of Peranakan tea time, adopting British tea culture into its own. “Tie” meaning “Tea”, Uncle Jeff explains. His famous “Otah Otah” , a delicate mackerel paste seasoned with spices and herbs. Uncle Jeff will also introduce the buah keluak and beef rendang, and for vegans, the Nasi Ulam. “ Don’t you worry, we’ve got something for everyone”. The pop up in Paris will finish with a collaborative coconut sago gula melaka, a delectable dessert that underscores the importance of fresh coconut in Peranakan cuisine.

Paris may be known as the fashion & culinary capital, but this September, it will also be a beacon for tradition made fashionable as we will prepare to embrace and celebrate the story of Nonyabong.

For Uncle Jeff,Nonyabong is a narrative of legacy, of a man determined to preserve the cultural richness of his heritage. In his own words, “What is wrong with 400-500 years of traditional history?” Uncle Jeff asks poignantly, emphasising the profound depths of his heritage. It's a sentiment resonated by Paris based designer Andrew Gn’s exhibition “ Fashioning Singapore and the World”, who shares Peranakan roots, and is celebrated for his elegant couture, adorning personalities from Lady Gaga to the Princess of Wales.

In Uncle Jeff’s world of Peranakan cuisine, every dish is more than food. Its tradition, its history, it is above all, a love letter to Nonyabong.

2024: This article is dedicated in memory of Uncle Jeff. Until we meet again. 🕯️🕯️🕯️

The Nonyabong Legacy from Singapore to Paris: A Glimpse into Jeffrey Chia's Authentic Peranakan Kitchen